Baja Road Report

Just a quick update from our readers report, every bit of the November road report holds true. Resurfacing of the road north of Guerrero Negro appears completed. Resurfacing projects north of Cabo San Lucas on Hwy 19 and north of Loreto on Hwy 1 linger, so watch for loose gravel. Aside from that, those bridge repairs and short detours mentioned in the November road report are about all challenges Holiday Drivers will face.
The desert has dried out a bit since my trip in November, but it's still a lovely drive. Please be aware of the danger of cattle in the roadway. The worst section of road for cattle is between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas on Hwy 19. This is also the busiest section of road in Baja Sur, as so many of the supplies for Cabo are trucked from the port in La Paz. Long lines of traffic form behind heavily laden trucks and drivers become frustrated and pass where they should not.

Baja Road Report Cabo San Lucas to Tijunana

Baja Road Report

 

November 29, 2004

This past week I drove every inch of Baja’s Hwy 1, twice. The road is in very good shape. Without the impact of hurricanes this season, the road crews had a chance to get ahead of the game. There has been a lot of resurfacing of the Hwy from Cabo to Tijuana; some of it is on-going. There are a few bridges still under demolition and repair, but permanent by-passes have been constructed. The gentle rain that most of Baja received last month has made the trip beautiful. The desert is very green and many plants are still blooming. I enjoyed a moon rise on my southbound trip over the Boojum forest that was breathtaking.

Since most of you will start in the north, we’ll begin there. If you haven’t driven south since last fall, pay attention at the crossing in San Ysidro. The Scenic Toll Road now turns off into a better ramp, sweeping right, instead of back around as it use to. The first few miles along the cement curtain (US Border) are quite rough, busy and narrow, but once you crest the hill and turn south, the highway is much better.

 

The toll plazas along the coast are being replaced and construction is nearing completion, the plaza closest to Ensenada is the least complete. Watch for construction workers and traffic around these sites. The first two new plazas are 1 km south of the existing toll booths. The current northern most plaza has a mini-mart adjacent to it and cross traffic can be difficult. It will be easier and safer when the current toll plaza is removed. Two axel toll is $24 pesos, they take dollars and pesos but not a combination there of. So make sure you have enough of the correct change ($72 pesos) before you hit the hwy.

 

The alternate road to Tecate is in the usual condition, as I took that route when going north. They have revised the approach to the border crossing and you have to dog leg into the street that takes you up to the hill to the checkpoint. I waited 45 minutes to cross at Tecate, two simple lines, none of the pushing and shoving that you experience at San Ysidro, where I understand that the crossing time (11/21/04) Sunday evening was close to 3 hours with the weekend traffic and returning competitors from the Baja 1000. There are several wineries open along that hwy now; most are open from 10AM to 5PM daily for tastings.

 

In Ensenada I recommend not taking the truck route. I found with all the stop signs and traffic lights that the waterfront route is faster by far. It’s no more a challenge for the long rig than the truck route, maybe less so. You pass the fish wharf and the Plaza de Tres Cabezas, the cruise ship dock and make a left on Delante Blvd. You rejoin Hwy 1 near the Gigante store. Hwy 1 is now 4 or more lanes for several more kilometers to the south now. The stop lights slow you down and there is construction at the south end of the 4 lane, as they extend it even further south.

 

Ensenada is growing and the city blends right on south into the dusty pueblo of Maneadero and out toward Colonia Caňon Buenavista. Your first military check point is located before you start up the grade of the Sierra el Encino.

 

This section of Hwy 1 from Ensenada to San Quintin was very busy with truck traffic; sections to pass are limited and dicey on the hill climbs. Don’t expect anyone to use turnouts. Choose your opportunities carefully.

 

San Quintin as expanded too, but only along the road. From Colonet to San Quintin there is heavy rural traffic, tractors and loaded trucks. My speed was reduced to 35-40mph for about 20km. San Quintin use to have two paved lanes and 1 Pemex (gas) Station. They have at least 4 Pemex now and four lanes go almost all the way through town. Watch ahead though, on two occasions the left (fast?) lane becomes the left turn only lane.

 

From San Quintin to El Rosario the roads are excellent and well marked. Get gas in El Rosario. The last remaining Baja Gas Gap is from here south, about 250km to the next station. Despite the addition of new gas stations along the way, there are still no stations in Parador Punta Prieta or Punta Prieta. (the intersection to Bahia de los Angeles)

 

The road south of El Rosario into the nature preserve is in very good shape. It was resurfaced and striped during the summer.

There is a local policia truck in Catavina and the SCT highway ends outside of town. According to my sources, this means he can legally write citations to passing motorists. All the truckers crawl through town at the posted speed limit, so think about it. In the legendary Catavina Vado last year’s beautiful repair seems to be coming apart at the seams. There is a major pothole right near the middle of the road.

 

Some of the best and worst of the pavement of the trip occurs in the “Valle de los Cirios” (Valley of the Candles) protected area north of Guerrero Negro. There is resurfacing in process here on the southern most part of Hwy 1 in Baja California, and for good reason. This section of road has been the roughest since I have been driving Baja. There are 4 road states in this area; 1) Old, rough and pockmarked, 2) Scraped for resurfacing 3) Rolled cold patch and finally the finished… 4) Beautiful machine laid black asphalt. There are no lines painted on that new pavement so in the dark, the road disappears.

 

Once you begin down the grade south of Jesus-Maria, keep a sharp eye for cattle in the road. I saw a number of herds on the side of the road when I was headed north in daylight and the roadside fences are non-existent. On my southbound trip I had to drive more than 1 hr in the dark as I approached Guerrero Negro. I chose to tuck in behind a truck after dark and let him find the errant bovines.

 

At this time of year it is difficult to make Guerrero Negro in daylight from Tijuana. The days are short and you are traveling against the time zones. To make it in daylight, you have to cross the border by 8:30AM and press hard all day. Someone said to me yesterday that they thought the drive from TJ to Cabo was so difficult. If you accept that it IS a two day trip, it can be a very pleasant trip.

 

In Guerrero Negro I stay at the Motel Las Ballenas, a small place on the right off the main drag half a block. It’s a very simple room, but I’ve always found it clean with plenty of hot water, secure parking and just $200 pesos for one person. There is a diner in this same block on the main road, I would use the same adjectives to describe the food as I do the rooms. I usually enjoy my best meal of the day at Hotel Malarrimo’s restaurant. They have great beef in particular but anticipate $15 an entrée average. This place is very busy during the whale watching season.

 

Most of the minor problems on Hwy 1 occur in Baja California Sur. Baja California uses mechanical asphalt machines where Baja California Sur uses the ‘rice crispy cookie’ technique to resurface the highway it seems. Tar is first applied to the prepared roadway. Then crushed stone is smooth on, then another layer of tar and so on. The finished product is rolled and left with quite a bit of loose gravel on top of the new surface. Along Bahia de Concepcion north of Loreto there is some of this type of resurfacing in process. Watch your speed on some of the corners; it can be like driving on ball bearings.

 

At km99 south of Mulege the bridge has been out for more than a year and the roughest detour of the trip is around the construction. It is paved, or shall we say was paved. It’s now a series of small car eating potholes so take your time; it’s less than 150 yards. At km35 in the same stretch there is a big chunk on the northbound lane missing near the shoulder.

 

The roadway from Loreto to CD Insergents is wonderful. Resurfaced this summer with great new yellow and white lines, I didn’t see any cattle in this area on either trip.

From Insergents to Constitucion is four wonderful lanes the entire way. Watch for slow moving farm machinery that takes up more that one lane. In Constitución the center two lanes are the through street and four lanes outside the boulevard are to access the local streets.

 

Several traffic lights have been disconnected and who stops and who doesn’t seems to be tribal knowledge. The best fast food in town is Taquaria Karen on the east side of the road at an intersection. The beef, pork and fish tacos are something I try not to miss when I’m passing though.

 

Significant paved detours exist around bridges that are out just north of Santa Rita and just north of El Cien. These bridges have been out for a while and demolition is still underway while construction of new pylons has begun. Both of these detours are about 200 yards long and rough. Take it slow and it’s not too bad.

 

From El Cien to La Paz the road is complete. After years of construction this road is wide open. The corners are banked and the pavement is well marked. The final military check point is just north of La Paz. Construction has begun on the overpass on the north side of La Paz but traffic doesn’t seem to be affected.

 

Watch for cattle and goats in the road between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas. There are more road kills in the section than the other 850 miles combined. Particularly bad are from La Paz to the Hwy 1, Hwy 19 intersection and from El Migraino south to Cabo on Hwy 19. Truck traffic from La Paz to Cabo is heavy and radar has been seen in use by the Federales. Some resurfacing is wrapping up from Todos to Cabo, watch for loose gravel on the turns.

 

If you haven’t been to Cabo in a year you won’t recognize it and more importantly, almost every street downtown now is one way the other direction. Coming into town from Hwy 19 you will find construction and heavy traffic from Soriana’s in. Four lanes are under construction, but they were needed about 4 months ago. Lazaro Cardenas, the main street though town has major changes too. The left lane is no longer the through lane but a delayed arrow left turn lane at several intersection. U turns are not allowed at any of the intersections, although you may make what they call a 120° turn onto the opposing service street. At City Club, the left turn is achieved from the left lane of the right hand service road. Don’t worry, you’ll understand after your first ticket. They are aggressive in Cabo now on parking tickets and moving you along in red zones.

 

All told, the road is in great shape and the desert drive is beautiful. So take your time, don’t drive when you are tired and enjoy the scenery.

 

Tomas

Remember - Mucho Ojo!

 

 

Tomas Zyber

Editor

tkz@bajainsider.com